Spring Sign

It’s been a little while since we did a DIY  sign post, right? For a while there, we were kicking at least one out a month. With the arrival of spring, I decided it was time for a new sign to freshen things up around here. What I love about the word “fresh” is that it has a few different meanings. When put in the kitchen, maybe it speaks to fresh produce. In the craft room or office, it makes me think of fresh  and new ideas. And if I were to put it in one of my children’s rooms, I couldn’t help but think that it kind of speaks to their attitudes. They have been known to get a bit fresh with me.
1 6-ft 1×3
1 11.5″x16.5″ piece of 1/4 inch thick plywood/mdf
Paints of your choice (I’ve gotten a lot of use out of this set of acrylic paints from Amazon)
Stencil letters or Silhouette machine to make stencil
This is actually one of those projects that I did with scraps from the workshop. The sign when assembled is about 20.5″x16″.
Create a 1/4 inch wide, 1/2 deep groove in your 1×3 using your table saw. For more detailed instructions on how to do this, see this post.
Cut your 1×3 into the following sizes:
2 –  11″ long pieces
2 – 20.5″ long pieces
I painted the frame pieces and the sign insert prior to assembling. I used acrylic paint and watered it down slightly so that it appeared more like a stain on the wood. On the sign insert, I did a whitewash application, similar to this sign I did last year.


Next, using wood glue, assemble your frame around the insert. Use a clamp to hold the sign together while the glue sets. (Ignore fact that the sign already has letters on it, I did things slightly out of order).
Once sign is set, get out your stencil. Usually I’ll use the vinyl for my silhouette so that it adheres to whatever I’m stenciling, but I was actually out of vinyl, so I did it the (slightly) old fashioned way. I still used the silhouette, but this time just cut out my letters on regular card stock. I then traced the letters onto the center of the board with a pencil.

Then I hand painted the letters in dark grey and yellow paint. Certainly this took a bit longer than my usual method (see this post ) BUT it was kind of nice to do something by hand for a change.  Let it dry and you’re done!


DIY Frame for Wrapped Canvas Art

diy canvas frame

Art has become pretty accessible in recent years, hasn’t it? And, yes, I’m probably using the term “art” loosely. By “art”, I mean pretty pictures that appeal to the lay person (me) that can now be found in tons of stores for pretty cheap. Usually they’re sold in wrapped canvas formation. And while that’s ok, sometimes I find myself wanting my “art” to look a little more substantial. Since it seems wrong to spend hundreds of dollars framing a piece of canvas art that cost $29.99, I wanted to come up with an cost efficient and effective DIY frame.

The subject canvas picture is found below. I picked it up at World Market a few months ago when it was 50% off (it’s still available for sale – similar here). I’ve got a pretty large blank wall in our master bathroom by the tub and I thought this picture seemed “bathroom-ish”. I know, I know, I should be a curator in a museum with my eye and ability to articulate the meaning of art.

So here’s how I did it. Our bathroom is definitely not rustic, so I invested in some better quality wood than I otherwise would, as I didn’t want overly knotted or rough wood. If you prefer a more rustic look, by all means get the lower grade lumber!

And, don’t forget, this week we are celebrating our 1 year blogiversary!! In celebration, we are running a contest on our Instagram account (@beckhamandbelle) to give away some wall art AND a Target gift card. Hop over to IG to follow us and check it out!!

DIY Frame for Wrapped Canvas Art
DIY Wrapped Canvas Frame


(will vary depend on the size of the canvas you’re framing)
2 8 foot lengths of 1x4s (remember that 1x4s aren’t really 1x4s, more like 1x3s and a bit)
angle clamps (optional)
Measure the canvas. Mine was 30×40.
Most canvases of this size look like this on the back side.
I wanted a more polished look for the frame, so I mitered my edges at 45 degrees. I cut two lengths  with the interior measurement of 30″ (maybe a smidge over – like .125″) so that it wouldn’t be too tight to affix the frame. Then I did two lengths with interior measurements of 40.125.

My method was to cut one piece, and then to use that piece as a template to measure out my matching piece, as pictured below.

Then I began assembling. I laid out the frame on the ground, applied wood glue and the two angle clamps I have, and let it set. Once dry, I used finishing nails to secure the frame.



The last step was staining. I wanted the frame to be mostly black, but to show some of the nice wood grain.  I actually tried a new product (new to me, at least) on this project called Minwax Pro Series Wiping Stain in Antique Black (similar here). I put on two applications of the black stain (letting the coats dry in between). And then I finished it off with a bit of walnut stain, rubbed carefully into some of the more grainy parts of the wood. It added a little something extra, I think.

Finally, it was time for assembly. This part was actually pretty easy. Since the frame added some faux depth to the painting, I wanted the canvas to be inset ever so slightly. So, on the back of the frame I marked where the back of the canvas should attach. I then drilled holes into the top underside of the frame and the bottom underside of the frame and screwed into the frame of the canvas to secure.


The finished product! I have a feeling I’m going to be doing a lot more of these….


DIY Wrapped Canvas Frame


Super Easy DIY Wooden Entryway Console Table

DIY Entryway Console TableAlright now when I say that this is “super easy”, I mean it. If you’re newer to this wood-working game, but are ready to do a “big” project, this is the perfect one to get started on. I built this in a day… I doubt that’s record breaking but with three toddlers, I think it kinda is. All in, my DIY Entryway Console Table only cost about $30 to make. How awesome is that?!… Can you tell I love it??!
The “before” of this table was a six year old storage bench that was constantly cluttered with bags, coats, groceries, etc. Don’t judge. It was admittedly an eye sore. But this number turned out to be a beauty. And I love the usable shelf space!


8, 1″x4″x8″ pine boards, cut to below

  • 28pcs x 12.25″
  • 4pcs x 49.25″
  • 4pcs x 33″
  • 2pcs x 23″ with miters at back diagonals
  • 4pcs x 3.5″

8, 1″x3″x8″ pine boards, cut to below

  • 4pcs x 33″
  • 8pcs x 10.5″
  • 6pcs x 48″
4 casters
Wood glue (I use Titebond)
Nails for electric nailer
Wood screws (to attach casters)
Wood stain (I used Minwax, Espresso)

Tools used

Mykita electric drill
Mykita electric sander
Royebi miter saw
Ryobi electric 18V Brad nailer (my favorite new toy!)

*My measurements are for a build that finishes 36″ (with casters) x 49.25″ x 15″. Always measure and cut as you go. These measurements are meant for guidance only.*

I started by building the bases for each of the three shelves. You will use the 1″ x 3″ boards for the bases. The middle and bottom shelf will be the same build.
Build two rectangles using two 1″x3″x10.5″ boards & two 1″x48″ boards. Glue every where you will nail for extra strength. You’ll want to sandwich the 10.5″ boards so the rectangle measures approx. 48″x12.25″.

DIY Entryway Console Table
The rectangular base for the top shelf will ultimately measure the same as the other shelves – 48″x12.25″ – however you need two additional 10.5″ sandwiched at the 1/3 & 2/3 mark as shown below. Again, glue and nail at all touch points.

DIY Entryway Console Table

DIY Entryway Console Table

Next, finish the middle and bottom shelves by side-stacking 14 of the 1″x4″x12.25″ boards, butting them up against each other and again gluing and nailing at each end of each board.
 DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table
Moving onto the legs… Here you’ll use 8 boards total – 4, 1″x3″x33″ & 4, 1×4″x33″.  Apply glue to the 1″ edge of the 3″ width boards and attach to the face of the 4″ boards. Nail in several places to reinforce.

DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table To attach the legs, start with the top shelf base. Ensure the base is flush with the ground and wedge each corner into the angle of the leg, gluing and nailing twice at each corner.

DIY Entryway Console Table

Note: you are now working with the shelf upside down.
Insert the middle shelf so the top is about 10″ from the bottom edge of the top shelf. Using a level, ensure the shelf is straight before nailing. *You may want to solicit an extra hand here to hold the shelf as you nail around the legs.*

DIY Entryway Console TableNext, insert the bottom shelf, again using a level to ensure it’s straight and flush with the bottom edges of the legs.

DIY Entryway Console Table I then added two supports for the middle shelf. Sorry, I failed to take detailed pictures here amid my attempts in getting these cuts right, which admittedly took me a couple tries, but ultimately measured 1″x3″x23″ with 45″ miters on back diagonals. Again, important to measure & cut as you go as this length will be determined by the distance in between shelves.

Before flipping your table upright, glue & nail the 3.5″ x 3.5″ squares to each corner, making sure the edges are flush with the sides of the legs.
 DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table
Flip over the table. Almost done!

DIY Entryway Console Table Final step before the finishing steps (sanding, staining, and styling!).

Attach the top boards – four, 1″x4″x49.25″ – to the top base, glueing and nailing around the perimeter. (A couple of my boards had a very slight warp so I clamped after gluing and before nailing).

DIY Entryway Console Table

I used my electric sander to perfect and smooth edges and shelf tops.
How beautiful is this raw table?

DIY Entryway Console Table

 Wipe the table clean of any dust from sanding and stain with approx. 2 coats of wood stain depending on the brand and color of choosing. You may also want to apply a poly coat.
Allow the stain to dry thoroughly.
Once the stain has dried, you can flip the table to apply caters, should you choose to add this touch. I purchased casters with brakes since my table will sit on hardwood floors. Screw the casters into the 3.5″x3.5″ squares at each of the four corners, making sure to screw into the the bottom edges of the legs.


DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table This was seriously so simple guys. I’m in love with my table and receive compliments from anyone that walks in our door.
DIY Entryway Console Table DIY Entryway Console Table If you build our version of this console table or something similar, we’d love to see!

Home Depot Style Challenge – Behind the Scenes

Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
The Home Depot Style Challenge

About a month and a half ago, Steph and I got together here in Charlotte to execute our plans for The Home Depot Style Challenge, which we’d been invited to participate in over the summer.

Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath

Here’s how it worked: The Home Depot shipped us a bunch of cool holiday-themed stuff and gave us the assignment of DIY-ing a holiday wreath, and styling the surrounding space. Head over to Beckham + Belle’s post on The Home Depot Blog for more on the DIY!

Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
Master Light Stringer
Setting Up Our Home Depot Style Challenge Shoot

We actually set up our holiday ‘scene’ on my back patio.  Since Christmas in the Carolinas is often pretty mild (I’m originally from Canada, so it’s all relative…), it’s not unusual to end up sitting outside on Christmas day. So Steph and I thought it would be fun to style an outdoor living room, complete with a comfy blankets, DIY plaid pillows, lights and a hot cocoa & snack bar. Super cozy.

Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath


Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath


Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath

Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath

The lights were a little more effective once the sun went down…
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
The wreath design was quite honestly Steph’s brainchild (she is quite brilliant). I just helped figure out how we could bring her vision to life!


Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath

It took us a while to figure out all the steps, and we messed up once or twice but I’m confident that if we had to make another one, we could really knock it out quickly!

Fail. I blame the old guy in the background.
Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath
This one wanted in on the action, feeling strongly that flowers should be incorporated into the garland.
Feeling ambitious, we even did our very first Beckham + Belle video … as we celebrated the completion of the Home Depot Style Challenge with Kir Royales.


Home Depot Style Challenge DIY Wreath

So head over to the Home Depot Blog and let us know what you think! While you’re there, check out all the other great Home Depot Style Challenge projects!

DIY Wooden Rolling Storage Crate

I have a thing for great storage crates and baskets. In the past few months I’ve bought several with the intent to store books and blankets in our great room. The kids’ toys however seem to procreate and always take over all of our living spaces. As a result, all of those crates and baskets I bought with good intention have ended up quick solves for clean-up time. Useful still I suppose but still leave me lacking a storage solution for the things I actually want to keep in the great room. I recently got my first “big girl” power tool, a Royebi miter saw, and thought I’d test it by making a crate… Pretty simple DIY for those new to power tools and/or woodworking. I gave it an industrial touch by adding casters and finished it with rope handles. I quickly loaded it up with some of my favorite blankets before the boys could pack it with action figures. I love how it turned out and just might need to make a few duplicates to scatter throughout the house.


Three 1″x4″x8′ untreated wood slats
Birch Plywood, 1/4″ (or thicker depending on intent of use) x 24″ x 16.5″ (approx. measurements)
Wood glue
32 Nails
12 Wood screws
Stain, Minwax Dark Walnut
Polyurethane Finish
1″ Natural rope
1/4″ Natural rope

Miter Saw
Drill, screw bit & 3/4″ drill bit
Sand paper
ScissorsI started by cutting each of the wood pieces with my miter saw.


I cut six pieces to measure 15″ in length and another six to 24″ in length.
 I built three rectangles to build up the sides of the crate, hammering in a nail on each corner of the 24″ boards.


Once I had the three rectangles built, I traced the perimeter of one onto 1/4″ thick pre-sanded plywood to ensure an exact fit. (The measurements of lumber are often overstated and truly measure smaller than what’s called out at the hardware store, hence better measure yourself and/or trace).


The 1/4″ thick plywood is well suitable for my intent of filling with blankets, however depending how how you intend to utilize the crate, you may want to bump up the thickness.Hubs cut the plywood with a handsaw given that it wasn’t particularly thick, therefore quite simple to do so by hand. If you have a thicker board, a jig or table saw would do the trick.

Sand any edges if necessary. Before nailing in the base, I put a thin layer of wood glue around the edge of the base.


Then, at each corner, I hammered two nails through the base into the sides of the crate.

Next, I built up the sides of the crate. I used wood glue to attach the stack of three rectangles.


Then, to further hold the sides together, nailed 1″ x 1″ x 10″ cuttings of wood into the interior edges.
The base of the box is now complete. Be sure to allow any wood glue to dry thoroughly before proceeding to stain.



Using a clean rag, I stained the box with two coats of Dark Walnut Stain and finished with a coat of poly.


Once the stain dried, I drilled two holes into the narrower sides of the box, approx. 5.5″ inches apart. Depending on the thickness of the rope, you may need to increase your drill bit size or rotate as you drill to open up the hole beyond 3/4″.


*Note, if preferred, the holes can be drilled pre-stain.
I sanded over the holes along with some of the edges and sides of the box to make it appear a bit worn in.


With tape tightly wrapped around the cut edge of rope, I inserted the rope from the outside in. The tape prevents the rope from fraying as you insert through the hole.
I used a finer hemp rope to tie a whip knot around the rope. (There are great animated tutorials out there on how to tie whip knots.)


 I trimmed the 1″ rope just under the knot as shown and repeated on the other side.
To finish off the crate, I screwed on four casters to the bottom of the crate.
Because my plywood was quite fine, I did not drill through the inner most hole of the caster.


That’s it!